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Piute Pass: Day 01

DEAD RECKONING, Piute Pass

Piute Pass: Day 01

June 4, 2015 | Oasis, CA to Bishop, CA

Oasis doesn’t look the way it’s supposed to. If you’re going to name a place Oasis there are certain expectations; maybe I’ve been inculturated by Scheherazade and Looney Toons, so what? When I think of an oasis, I’m thinking about palm trees, lapping blue waters, swaying hammocks, genies and coconut cocktails delivered by chilled out turtles in sunglasses and palm frond caps; you know, the works. This Oasis had none of that, no genies, nada.

Piute Pass: Day 01

I II III IV V VI VII VIII IX X XI

I Day 01 Basic Info

START

Oasis, California

 

STOP

Bishop, California

 

DISTANCE

53.6 miles

 

ELEVATION GAIN

7361 feet

 

WEATHER

Scorching hot, freezing rain, blue bird skies on fresh fallen snow.

 

GOAL

Leave Oasis heading east to ride over the White Mountains to Bishop, if possible we would add a bonus section through the Bristlecone Pine Forest and down Silver Canyon into Bishop.

 

REALITY

We rode over the White Mountains and we did the bonus section. In the morning it was really hot, then it got really really cold with junior varsity snow (i.e. rain at 32 degrees) coming down on us.

II A Tolerable Level of Misery

Oasis doesn’t look the way it’s supposed to. If you’re going to name a place Oasis there are certain expectations; maybe I’ve been inculturated by Scheherazade and Looney Toons, so what? When I think of an oasis, I’m thinking about palm trees, lapping blue waters, swaying hammocks, genies and coconut cocktails delivered by chilled out turtles in sunglasses and palm frond caps; you know, the works. This Oasis had none of that, no genies, nada. It is just an intersection of two roads, some fences, a few trees, and a shot-out camper I am sure has seen its fair share of tequila-fueled self-destruction. Aside from that there wasn’t much of an oasis in Oasis. We weren’t planning to hang around anyway, Oasis is where the eastern section of the 168 starts/ends and where we started our ride.

 

We spent the previous night in Brown’s Town Campground, an RV park just outside of Bishop. We slept under the stars, kinda falling asleep under the undying blue light of the moon. This was the high desert in late May, and we were sacked out deep inside the rain shadow of the Sierra Nevada. Normally there would be no reason to expect any evening precipitation, but this was a Yonder Journal trip, and seasonally incorrect weather is part of our M.O., so in the middle of the night when it started to sprinkle on us it was a non-surprise surprise. The rain was rascally and continued just long enough to wake us up and send us rifling through our gear to set up some makeshift tarps. Most of the crew set up something slightly professional, but I just pulled out my tent’s rain fly and rolled myself into it.

 

We arrived in Oasis around 10:00 AM the following morning under a vengeful sun irradiating the countryside. Outside of the few trees in the immediate vicinity, the rest of the landscape was scorched earth: baked chalky hills quilted with dimpled sagebrush. We unloaded the van, screwed with our bikes, took photographs, made jokes and set off pedaling in a dead-still dry heat. No wind, no help. The road leaving Oasis ran directly into the hills to the west where it disappeared.

This was like riding in a sauna, and the heat weighed on us like a great cloak, suffocating any ambition.”- KVH

Thankfully the climb was short and our legs were fresh so it wasn’t too long before we reached Gilbert Summit at 6374 feet. From there we looked down on Deep Springs Valley and across to the White Mountains in the west.

 

As we pedaled, the layers of clothing we had buried deep in our bags during the first climb were dug back out. We were hit by the first series of short showers just as the wind and the grade began to pick up, serving us a chilling wind/water combo that only a few hours before would have been a godsend. Now it served to remind us of our lack of sufficient clothing. As we climbed into the canyon leading up to Westgard Pass we came across a motorcycle accident. A totaled black Honda Goldwing was piled onto the back of a flatbed tow-truck and by the time we arrived the rider had already been taken away, there was no indication of his condition. Three shocked riders stood away from their parked bikes scratching at the ground while they stared with glossed eyes at the crowd of motorists, the car-choked road, and the darkening desert.

 

ADDITIONAL SUPPORT PROVIDED BYSRAMThe climb up the east side of the White Mountains is steep, beautiful, and claustrophobic. The asphalt rolls over natural water bars and through tight openings cut between rock walls. The weather conditions continue to decline and we are splashed with bursts of frigid mountain rain, but the climb passes quickly and we reach the plateau at the top of the range. To strictly follow the 168 we would descend the west side of the Whites into Big Pine and go back up the 395 to Bishop. That would be the short option, the easy option, the smart option. Alternatively we could ride up through the Bristlecone Pine Forest and descend down Silver Canyon. In terms of length the two routes are almost dead even, but the Bristlecone route would take us up to around 11,000 feet, adding another 3,000 feet or so of climbing. With the precipitation giving no hint of letting up it seemed that the right thing to do was to to gain elevation—get above the storm you know?—while steering clear of any services or shelter.

 

If what we were experiencing earlier in the day could be described as bursts of rain, our afternoon inclement experience through the Bristlecones was a prolonged blast. The weather morphed into a rain/hail tag team; the hail tenderizes the skin, raising sensitivity and creating a higher tactile awareness perfect for magnifying the heat-degrading effects of its partner, the nearly frozen rain. Our pace was slow and forward progress was further interrupted by repeated moments of roadside bivouacking as we took shelter from the downpour beneath the sparse, gnarled canopies of the world’s oldest trees. At the time there was a distinct lack of wonder concerning the existence of these ancient trees.

Bristlecones, if you are out there, we didn’t mean it. We know you’re cool, we know that you’re worthwhile, glorious, and amazing. You just have to understand that when we were there, those cuss words, those cutting remarks and put downs, those weren’t us, that’s not who we are. That was the bad decision talking, the cold bones talking. What I’m trying to say is that it wasn’t you, it was us.”- KVH

At one point I looked over at Dylan who was shivering, his flannel shirt and jean shorts soaked through “You alright bud?” “Yeah, yeah… I’m totally cool.” What sarcasm, what a sense of irony! I am glad he had the grit to stick with the existential humor shtick because none of us had any kind of gear to offer up. This kind of knowing check-in is common during a difficult journey, no one expects to be surprised by the answer, all we are looking for is a vocalization that verifies our shared experience, an agreement that we have all resigned to the point where we share a tolerable level of misery, and that despite our hardship we will continue to remain thoroughly in cahoots.

 

We continued to climb, hoping the visitor center would be open and dreaming of hot chocolate, dry carpet, and an environmentally-controlled user experience catering to human comfort while simultaneously providing a degree of ancient arboreal education. I was so looking forward to an in-depth look at the wonders of phloem and xylem or experiencing a dioramic representation of the golden marmot’s spiritual life. Like most dreams, this one would not come to pass. The visitor center, our sanctuary, was closed. The climb had spread out our merry band and we needed to regroup. In order to keep from freezing as riders straggled in, we did push ups, wrapped ourselves in aluminum foil and laid on the hood of a stranger’s truck, still warm from the long drive up the mountain. From here it was only a few miles to the cutoff where we would catch the Silver Canyon road and plummet down the west side of the Whites.

 

At this point we were over 10,000 feet above sea level and altitude was randomly attacking our herd. Ty and Erik, two of our strongest, were feeling it the most. Nausea, headaches, shortness of breath. And the bitch of it is that you can’t prepare for it. Not on our budget, at least. The last couple of miles before the descent were the slowest of the day. The road was a mess with snow melting into large, unavoidable puddles.

At this point we were above the clouds, or at least the clouds weren’t above us. The snow muffled sound from our surroundings and the rumble of our tires quickly faded out of recognition. During those moments our path was difficult, quiet, and serene. At the fork before the plunge we gathered in a white field under a bright sun; some of us hacked, some of us wheezed, and together we took in a grand horizon of mountains and clouds stretching away from us like ripples in a pond.”- KVH
FROM THE YONDER JOURNAL STORE
Dead Reckoning: Piute Pass Print
$30.00

Single, limited edition of thirty 18×24″prints. Art by Jon Bailey. Screen printed by hand in Brookyln, NY by LQQK Studio.

III Oasis

Mile 0
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No genies, no palm fronds, no grapes. Just a sign on the side of the road in the middle of a desert. Welcome to Oasis and the start of the 168.
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The paparazzi was off the chain. Not a moment went uncaptured, not a memory undocumented.
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This is what a body looks like on amulets. Without that little piece of lucky jewelry you'd be looking at just another hairy, pasty, aging chest. The amulet makes it exciting, interesting, you can't pull your eyes away. Amulets are good for everyone!
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Supplicants to the Dark Lord.
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A W O L
A W O L
A W O L
A W O L
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Yonder Journal Hot Tip: Everyone knows that saving weight is of the utmost importance. If you're a pro like Ty Hathaway save weight by wrapping your sandwich in your map. That way, when you get lost you can enjoy a little snack while contemplating your situation.
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Rebecka Hansson and Sofia Nohlin. SO. MUCH. STYLE.
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The group picture thing.
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Oopsie
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Daisey
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IV Gilbert Summit

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Nothing like a refreshing warm pull of whiskey in 100 degree heat at the top of climb.
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#peerpressure
Mile 5
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Rein it in buddy, not yet, noooooot yet.
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Kelli demonstrates planking. While Kelli is a purist when it comes to her planking style readers should know that Yonder Journal supports alternative planking styles including but not limited to; Hadoukening, Milking, Vadering, Teapotting, Owling, Horsemaning, Batmanning, Springing, Dufnering, and Pratting. *Why she picked a desiccated giant albino sea eel for her demonstration, only she can say, but it makes for a truly arresting image.
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"One can not be an American by going about saying that one is an American. It is necessary to feel America, like America, love America and then work." - Georgia O'Keeffe

V Deep Springs Valley

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The word east comes from Middle English est, from Old English ēast, which itself comes from the Proto-Germanic *aus-to- or *austra- "east, toward the sunrise"
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The word "West" is a Germanic word passed into some Romance languages (ouest in French, ovest in Italian, oeste in Spanish). As is apparent in the Gothic term vasi (Visigoths), it stems from the same Indo-European root that gave the Sanskrit vas-ati (night) and vesper (evening) in Latin.
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Casually storm chasing.
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Mile 17
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Just before the image was taken we waded through the scene of a motorcycle accident. As you can see the road undulates erratically. We didn't see the rider, but we saw the bike. It was a black pile of metal wreckage with a heavy dirt dusting lying in a heap on a tow truck. I hope that the rider didn't look the same.
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Erik and Dylan have an obsession with the Sin Dawg from Dave's Killer Bread, and for good reason. A whole Sin Dawg will deliver 1600 sweet calories to replenish your aching legs. Don't trust their opinion? The Sin Dawg gets 5 out of 5 stars on Amazon... AMAZON!
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#daisydukes
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Who's a li'l hider.
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VI Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest

Mile 24
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Technically the 168 continues west, and what I mean is that on every single map you will see the 168 continues west to Big Pine. But we wanted to see some ancient trees and descend down some gravel 2-trakk so we diverged from our path and headed into the Bristlecone National Forest. Opinions regarding the sensibility of this decision remain divided.
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The switchbacks were so steep, but at least is was freezing cold and wet.
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No gloves? Hahn Rossman once taught me that a sure-fire cure for cold hands is to ball your hands up into a fist over and over again to get blood flowing into them. In theory this technique should work. The problem is that usually your forearm muscles fatigue before any change is felt. Leaving you with cold hands and tired arms. Not that any of this matters, your bare hands don't really get cold. It's a mental game. Frostbite is a fiction, nerve damage is a myth.
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"Death is the sound of distant thunder at a picnic." - W. H. Auden
Mile 34
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Kelli employing the time honored "tin foil around the core" technique pioneered by elite racers in the early years of the Tour de France. Like other deeply traditional cycling techniques, the "Le étain papier d'aluminium" has been largely ignored by future-tech obsessed American riders. But like a fine wool or nice aged gouda, this timeless technique will never go out of style for those in the know.
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#freshies #powpow #pow #unbelievable #serum #shreddinggnar #bridesmaids #snow #wheels
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Mile 37
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Heaven, is that you? It's me Kyle/Ty/Daniel/Kelli/Dylan/Erik. Hey, I know we don't talk much, especially Erik. But if this is you, and we are here, and maybe we haven't died but we're just in a little tweener time, if so then this is great. Truly spectacular. Phenomenal really, thanks for putting on a show. I mean, it is really really really nice up here. I think though we would like to descend, you know, get back down to earth. Not that we don't like it here, it's great and all. And maybe if this is heaven and we mostly do the right thing then hopefully we can get back here sometime for a longer stay. Next time we'll be sure to bring the wine and long finger gloves and a pair of pants, or maybe next time we won't need them? Maybe next time you'll supply the tunics? Either way thanks, it's been swell.
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Hey Kelli, are those rain pants Lululemon?
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Altitude is... (please send your "altitude is" response to [email protected] The best responses will be featured as Instagram comments for this photo. If you gram leave your handle bro/bra!)
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Oh dear.

VII Silver Canyon

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Oh deer.
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This descent couldn't get any better, the road was without blemish, as if a layer of snow had been peeled back just before our arrival. Jumps, berms, and high speed. I could do this over and over and over again.
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Mile 41
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"Electric Chairlift," The new X-Games winter comp brings you the dopest tracks for groomers, deep pow, or just havin' a day in the park. Available now!
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Mile 46
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Im not going to say that we all got an unchanged underwear/mustard stained undershirt/dandruff in the beard vibe from this little jammer but I'm also not going to say we didn't.
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VIII Riding into Bishop

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Dump 'em.
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Dump 'em out.
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Mile 54
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Good night sweet prince.

IX Brief Histories Day 01: Oasis to Bishop
Researched & Compiled by Dillon Maxwell

HWY 168

 

  • Built in 1934.
  • 124 Miles.
  • Broken into Two Sections – East(Fresno to Huntington Lake) and West Section (Oasis to Sabrina Lake).

 

Westgard Pass

 

  • Elevation 7,313 ft.
  • Named after Anton L. Westgard, aka “The Pathfinder,” who was commissioned by the Federal Highway Administration in 1911 to scout possible routes for a transcontinental highway.
  • Originally built in 1873 by J.S. Broader to get Army troops across to the Inyo and White Mountains.
  • “The Narrows” are a section between mile  post 28.57-28.65 where their is no center strip painted on the road.

 

Deep Springs College

 

  • Founded by L.L. Nunn in 1917 to educate men in the West on engineering for the electrical power plants that Nunn had made his fortune on.
  • It is a private two-year college.
  • Student’s education is directed by the Three Pillars of the School: Academics, Labor, Self-Governance.
  • Deep Springs has under 50 people including staff and student.
  • Students have to ranch and raise alfalfa hay 20 hours a week and have a large say in what happens in the school as a part of the Self-Governance Pillar.

 

The White Mountains

 

  • Range on the California-Nevada Borderlands.
  • 60 miles in length, 10 miles in width.
  • Ecologically Dry.
  • Fault-Block Mountain range.
  • Highest Point is White Mountain at 14,252 feet.
  • The mountains host a fauna population of mustangs, bighorn sheep, marmots, and Clark’s nutcracker.
  • Contains great examples of Late Proterozoic and Cambrian Sections.

 

The Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest

 

  • Protected Area in the White Mountains.
  • Trees there have been dated to about 4000 years old.
  • Methuselah Grove is an ancient, unmarked grove in the Bristlecone Pine Forest.
  • The Methuselah Grove contains two of the world’s oldest non-clonal living organisms, one being 4789 years old, the other being 5,064 years old.
  • The location of these trees is unmarked to keep the location safe from vandals.
  • The trees grow in a white, rocky soil called dolomite that has basically weeded out other plants over thousands of years leaving the hearty bristlecones to survive.
  • The Patriarch Grove in the Forest contains the world’s largest bristlecone pine.
  • These ancient trees grow between 9,800-11,000 feet.

X Route Map

XI Mechanical Transport

  1. The purpose of this ride was to travel California Highway 168 from end to end. Not just the 168 as it exists today but the whole thing. The way it was originally imagined, from Nevada to Fresno, over both the Whites and the Sierra. Most of the route is on public roads which is obviously legal and therefore a no-brainer. However, 22 miles of the route is on trail John Muir Wilderness in the Sierra and Inyo National Forests. On which trail and in which Wilderness possession/use of Mechanical Transport is 1000% illegal.
  2. And so, because using/possessing Mechanical Transport in a Wilderness Area is 1000% illegal, we completely disassembled our bikes: pedals off​, wheels off​, skewers out, chain off, ​seat out​, etc. Then we semi-permanently attached the component parts to our backpacks where they remained (without exception, even while we slept) for the duration of our time in the Wilderness Area.
  3. So the question is, if you disassemble a car into thousands of pieces, including the motor, and transport the parts through the Sierra one the back of pack mules, which are legal, is that the same as driving an automobile through a Wilderness Area? We think not, we think if you disassemble a mechanism it’s no longer a mechanism.
  4. More importantly (semantics aside for a moment), we didn’t ride bikes in the Wilderness, nor are we advocating for others to ride bikes in the Wilderness.
  5. We took great pains to adhere to the law and the spirit of the Wilderness Act.
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